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FABRIC STRUCTURE


Updated: Category: Syllabus
Author: Member Level: SilverPoints: 2






UNIT I BASICS & STANDARD WEAVES 9
Cloth Geometry – Cover factor – Use of Point Paper – Elementary weaves – Plain and its derivatives –
Twill and derivatives – Satin – Sateen and derivatives – Ordinary and brighten honey comb – Huck-aback
and modification – Mock leno – Distorted mock leno – Crepe weaves.
UNIT II ARRANGEMENT OF FIGURES 9
Bedford cords – Plain and twill faced – Wadded welts and piques – Wadded piques – Loose and fast
back welts and piques – Spot figuring – Arrangement of figures – Drop designs half drop bases – Sateen
system of distribution.
UNIT III COLOUR AND WEAVE 9
Colour theory – Light and pigment theory – Modification of colour – Application of colours – Colour
and weave effects – Extra warp and extra weft figuring with two colours.
Backed fabrics – Warp and weft backed – Reversible and non-reversible.
UNIT IV SPECIAL WEAVES 9
Pile fabrics – Warp pile, fast wire pile – Terry weaves – Terry stripe and checks – Weft pile – Plain
back, twill back velveteen – Lashed pile corduroy – Weft plush.
Double cloth – Classification – Types of stitches-wadded double cloth – Warp and weft wadded double
cloth – Centre warp and weft stitched double cloth.
UNIT V PRINCIPLES OF ORNAMENTATION 9
Gauze and Leno weaves – Russian cord – Net Leno – Madras Muslin structures – Damasks, ply fabrics,
brocades, tapestry, swivel, lappet – Designs for ornamentation of fabrics – Application of special
jacquards – Self twilling, inverted hook, border jacquards.
L: 45 T:15 Total: 60
TEXT BOOKS
1. Grosicki, Z.J, “Textile Design and Colour”, Butterworths, 1950.
2. Grosicki, Z.J, “Advanced Textile Design and Colour” Butterworths, 1952.
REFERENCES
1. Goerner, D., “Woven Structure and Design”, Part – I, WIRA, 1986.
2. Goerner, D., “Woven Structure and Design”, Part – II, BTT6, 1989.


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